Owen Bradley Almost every laundry problem that sounds expensive starts with something cheap: a machine that is not sitting flat. Learning how to level a washer and dryer properly takes one spirit level, one spanner and about thirty minutes, and it fixes vibration, walking, excess noise and a surprising amount of premature wear. The job gets harder when the floor itself is out of true, which is common in older homes with timber joists, settled slabs or tile laid over an uneven screed. This guide covers the full process for both appliances, including the shim and pad tricks that make a springy old floor behave, and the checks that keep everything level months later.
Why Levelling Matters More Than People Think
A washing machine’s drum spins fast enough that a small imbalance produces a large force. The counterweight and suspension are engineered to absorb that force, but only when the cabinet is square to the floor and every foot is loaded. Tilt it, or leave one foot hanging in the air, and the machine converts that energy into movement: hopping, banging and eventually walking away from the wall.
Dryers spin far more slowly and rarely walk, but they still care. An out-of-level dryer runs its drum against the felt or plastic glide seals unevenly, which wears them thin, lets warm air leak past and lengthens drying times. On stacked units, a tilted base means the whole column leans, which puts strain on the stacking kit brackets. Get both appliances flat and the entire laundry runs quieter and lasts longer.
How to Tell Yours Is Off
- The machine rocks when you press down on any top corner.
- You can see a gap under one foot with a torch.
- The washer creeps forward over the course of a week.
- Water pools to one side of the drum when the cycle ends.
- A stacked set looks visibly out of alignment with the wall or cabinets.
- Spin cycles have become noticeably louder than they were at installation.
Tools and Materials
- A 24-inch spirit level. A short torpedo level works but is less accurate across a wide cabinet.
- An adjustable spanner, or the correct size for your feet’s lock nuts.
- Pliers and a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Hardwood or composite shims, never cardboard or folded paper.
- Anti-vibration pads or a rubber mat.
- An appliance dolly or a pair of furniture sliders, plus a helper.
- A torch to inspect the gap under each foot.
Prepare the Space Before You Start
Unplug both appliances and close the water supply valves to the washer. If the dryer is gas, shut the gas valve as well. Empty both drums so you are working with the true empty weight. Sweep and clean the floor underneath, because a single dried detergent lump or a screw head under a foot will throw the whole job off. Finally, check the floor itself with the spirit level before you touch either machine, placing it in several positions to see whether the slope runs consistently in one direction or dips in the middle.
How to Level a Washer and Dryer Step by Step
- Disconnect and pull the appliances out. Give yourself enough room to reach all four feet on each machine and to tilt the cabinets safely.
- Inspect the feet. Look for bent threads, missing rubber caps or a foot that has already unwound most of the way out. Replace any damaged foot before levelling; a worn one will never hold.
- Start with the washer. It is the heavier and more vibration-sensitive of the pair, so set it first and match the dryer height to it afterwards.
- Level side to side. Place the spirit level across the top of the cabinet, left to right. Turn the low-side feet clockwise or anticlockwise, usually a quarter turn at a time, until the bubble is centred.
- Level front to back. Rotate the level 90 degrees and repeat. Expect the first adjustment to disturb the second; alternate between the two directions until both read level.
- Set the rear feet correctly. Many machines have self-adjusting rear legs. With a helper, tip the cabinet forward roughly 45 degrees, hold it for a moment, then lower it slowly and evenly so both rear feet find the floor together.
- Test for rocking, not just level. Press hard on each top corner in turn. Any movement means a foot is not carrying load. Extend that foot slightly and re-check both level readings.
- Tighten the lock nuts. Hold each foot still and run the nut up firmly against the underside of the cabinet. Skipping this guarantees the machine goes out of level again within weeks.
- Repeat the whole sequence on the dryer. Aim to match the washer’s top height so a shared worktop or a matched set looks and functions correctly.
- Reconnect everything. Refit hoses and vent duct, restore water, gas and power, and check for drips at the fill hose connections.
- Run a spin-only test. Load a few damp towels evenly and run the fastest spin. Rest a hand on the top panel and watch for creeping at the base.
- Fine-tune and slide back. Correct any remaining rock, then push the machines into place leaving a few inches of clearance from the wall so hoses and ducts are not crushed.
Uneven, Sloping and Springy Floors
Adjustable feet have a limited range, usually under an inch. If the floor slopes more than the feet can absorb, or if a foot has to be wound almost all the way out, stop and shim instead. Winding a foot to its limit leaves only a couple of threads engaged, which is unstable and will eventually bend.
Use hardwood or purpose-made composite shims, cut so they sit fully under the foot with no overhang. Stack no more than two, and glue or tape them together so they cannot creep apart. Then bring the foot down onto the shim and re-level from scratch. Never use cardboard, folded card or plastic packaging: they compress, absorb moisture and collapse, and you will be redoing the job in a month.
Timber Floors That Flex
Suspended timber floors move under load, so a machine that reads level empty can tilt once the drum fills with water. The fix is spreading the weight. A sheet of 18mm plywood cut slightly larger than the appliance footprint distributes the load across multiple joists rather than four small points. Position the machine near a wall or over a joist line rather than mid-span, and level on top of the plywood, not before you fit it.
Hard Tile and Concrete
On rigid floors the machine will not sink, but every vibration is transmitted straight into the room and the feet can slide on smooth glazed tile. This is where washing machine anti-vibration pads earn their keep, gripping the feet and absorbing high-frequency buzz. Fit the pads first, then level, because adding them afterwards changes the height by several millimetres and undoes your adjustment.
Levelling Stacked and Side-by-Side Sets
A stacked pair is only as level as the washer underneath it, so get the base machine perfect before you lift the dryer into position. Use the manufacturer’s stacking kit rather than improvising brackets, and confirm the upper unit is locked into the kit at every anchor point. Never level a stacked set by shimming the top machine.
Side-by-side sets need one extra check: matched height. Two machines that are individually level but sit at different heights look wrong under a shared worktop and can pinch a countertop that spans them. Measure both top panels from the floor and adjust the taller machine’s feet down rather than winding the shorter one dangerously high. Keep at least an inch of air between the cabinets so vibration from one does not rattle the other. If you are buying rather than adjusting, matched washer and dryer sets are designed with identical cabinet dimensions, and our washer and dryer set buying guide explains which stacking and pedestal options fit which layouts.
Mistakes to Avoid
- Levelling with a full drum. Always work with the machine empty so the reading reflects its resting state.
- Trusting the level in one direction only. Side to side and front to back both need checking, repeatedly.
- Forgetting the lock nuts. This is the single most common reason a levelled machine drifts back out.
- Over-extending a foot instead of shimming when the floor is badly out of true.
- Ignoring a small rock because the bubble looks centred. A machine can read level and still pivot on three feet.
- Levelling before adding pads or plywood rather than after, which wastes the whole adjustment.
Frequently Asked Questions
How level does a washing machine actually need to be?
Within a few millimetres across the cabinet in both directions, and firmly resting on all four feet with no detectable rock.
Should the dryer be level too?
Yes. It will not walk like a washer, but an out-of-level dryer wears its drum seals unevenly and dries less efficiently.
Can I level a machine on carpet?
It is not ideal, since carpet compresses over time and blocks airflow. If you have no alternative, put a rigid board under the machine and level on that.
How often should I re-check?
Once or twice a year, and any time you move the appliance or notice new noise during the spin cycle. Older top-loaders in particular benefit from a check each season, and our roundups of the best top load washing machines and the quietest washing machines show how much modern suspension designs have improved.
Final Thoughts
Levelling is the cheapest insurance you can buy for two of the most expensive appliances in the house. Work with empty drums, check both directions, eliminate any rock, lock the feet, and shim or spread the load when the floor rather than the machine is the problem. Half an hour of careful adjustment buys you quieter cycles, undamaged flooring and a washer that stays exactly where you put it.
